The Aged Cheddar

I stood in my own farmyard with my cheese wrapped in butcher paper, and I looked at my daughter, and I said, very gently, “Claire, what easement?” She turned back to Maya in the barn doorway. “What easement?” she said sharply. Maya wiped her cheeks with her sleeve. “Mrs. Paquette, in 2008 your husband gave a conservation easement on the whole farm to the Vermont Land Trust,” she said. “He told us last spring, when we signed the lease. It says the land can only ever be used for agriculture. Nobody can build on it. Not ever.”

Claire stared. The color drained from her face in slow stages, the way water drains from a basin. “That is impossible,” she said. “The title search was clean.” I said that I thought she would find the easement recorded in the town clerk office, in Middlebury, in a plain white folder, under the name Henri Paquette. A math professor does not forget a number. It was recorded on March the fourth, 2008, at ten fifteen in the morning, because Henri had wanted to do it on the first warm day of spring. I had driven him there myself, in the old Ford, with a thermos of coffee.

Ms. Albright, the woman from Adult Protective Services, took a small step back from my daughter. She had been holding the folder against her chest like a shield. “Ms. Paquette, you told me your mother was confused,” she said slowly. “You said she was giving away her farm.” Claire turned to her, and I saw something I had never seen. My daughter, a fifty six year old woman, a vice president of a Boston investment firm, looked like a child who has broken a window and cannot find the words. “She is,” Claire said. “She was. I mean, she might be.” Her voice trailed off.

A quarter pound of cheddar in butcher paper, a bulldozer date on a calendar, and a farm that could never be sold.

I took the folder out of Ms. Albright hands. It was a thin thing, with Claire neat handwriting on the tab. Inside were forged letters from a doctor, a typed list of what Claire called my episodes, and a copy of the power of attorney I had signed at Christmas. I looked at the date on the last page. It had been altered. I turned to Ms. Albright, politely, as I might to a student at the back of a lecture hall. “Ms. Albright, I would be glad to take any cognitive test the state wishes,” I said. “I suggest the Sunday crossword, in pen.”

She did not smile, but her eyes did. She took out a pad and asked me five questions, quietly, in the middle of the farmyard, with the sheep bleating behind her and the two men from the livestock auction standing at a respectful distance. I answered them all. I named the president, the month, and the county. I counted backwards from a hundred by sevens. At eighty two, I stopped and asked if she would like me to continue to zero. She shook her head, closed her notebook, and said, in a clear voice, “Mrs. Paquette, you are sharper than I am.”

She turned to Claire. “Ms. Paquette, I am going to ask you to come with me,” she said. “There will be a formal investigation. I will be filing a report with the state attorney and the attorney general.” Claire stood very still. Then, in the oddest way, she began to cry. She had been drowning for years. She had gambled, she said, on a hedge fund in 2022, with money she did not have, and she had borrowed from a man in Boston to cover the losses. The developer deposit, three hundred thousand dollars, had been meant to save her. “Maman, I did not mean to hurt you,” she sobbed.

I put my hand on her wet cheek. I have been a mother for fifty six years, and a professor for thirty seven, and I have learned that a person who is falling needs a hand and a hard word, in that order. “Claire, you will go with Ms. Albright,” I said. “You will tell the truth. And when it is over, you will come home and help me weed the garden.” She nodded. The auction men, with a delicate cough, unloaded the sheep, one by one, back into the barn. Jonah and Maya wept and embraced me in the mud.

The sale to the developer was dissolved within a month, since the power of attorney had been obtained by deception, and the easement made the land worthless for construction. The attorney general charged Claire with fraud and exploitation, and, after I spoke on her behalf, the judge sentenced her to two years of probation, full restitution, and five hundred hours of community service, which she performed at the Addison County Humane Society. She sold her Boston apartment and moved to a small rented house in Middlebury, a mile from my farm.

Maya and Jonah signed a thirty year lease, with an option to buy the pasture at the end, which I drew up myself. They bring me fresh ricotta on Sundays, and, on the first of October, a wheel of aged cheddar from their new cheese room, with a handwritten label that says, Henri. It was the best I have ever tasted. I told them they should win a prize. They did, at the Vermont Cheesemakers Festival in the spring, a gold medal, and the whole farm turned out to see them accept it, with sheep at the fence.

On a Friday in June, I went into the cheese shop on Main Street. Benjamin was behind the counter, in his canvas apron, with his red beard glistening in the heat. “Mrs. Paquette,” he said. “The four year Grafton or the two year Cabot?” I looked at him over my glasses, and at the shining wheels on the shelves. Claire stood beside me, in a cotton dress, holding the basket. “The old one, Benjamin,” I said, with a smile. “Like me.” And my daughter laughed, for the first time in many months, a clear, true laugh, and took my arm.

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