The Sugarhouse Lights

Luc and the father of Ashley came up the path to the sugarhouse together, with two hundred guests following at a polite distance, holding their champagne glasses like candles in a procession. The floodlights turned the hillside white as noon. Luc looked pale in his tuxedo. The father of Ashley, a silver haired man named Gordon Whitcomb, walked with his chin up. He stood in the doorway of the sugarhouse, breathing the steam and the smell of woodsmoke, and said, “Clement, I do not know what this is about, but this is a wedding. Let us not embarrass the children.”

I held up my phone, and I tapped the screen. Out of the speaker came the voice of Gordon Whitcomb, as clear as a church bell. “Once the old man signs the deed to Luc, we file the subdivision. Forty lots. The sugarhouse comes down. The kid does not need to know. He is hard of hearing, he will not catch a word.” I had slipped the phone beneath the napkin of the children table, between a crayon and a juice cup. The hearing aids work fine. They also work as an audio stream. Nobody in the Northeast Kingdom ever asked me which.

The crowd made a soft sound. Gordon Whitcomb went the color of boiled milk. Luc turned slowly toward his future father in law, then toward me. I took a folded paper from my vest pocket. “This is the conservation easement, recorded in 2018,” I said. “Yvette and I signed it with the Vermont Land Trust. All two hundred forty acres of this hill, the sugarbush and the sugarhouse and the pond, can never be developed. Not by me, not by Luc, not by anyone. Forty lots would be a crime, Gordon.”

A wall mounted speaker in a sugarhouse gave one grandfather the evening to bring his grandson back to the truth in St. Johnsbury.

I gave my terms with the steam rising behind me. “Gordon, you will tear up whatever option you made with my grandson, and you will drive off this hill tonight. Ashley, you are welcome to stay, if you want to be part of this family. But you will not call me hard of hearing again. Luc, I am not angry with you. You are twenty nine and you wanted to be liked. I only want to hear you say one thing.” The maple trees creaked in the dark. Every guest leaned in.

Luc said it in front of two hundred people. “Grandpa Clem, I am sorry. I signed an option on the land three weeks ago, and I did not tell you. Gordon said you would be happy to see it become a resort. I knew it was wrong, and I did it anyway, because I wanted him to think I was a man.” He started to cry, and he did not hide it. I went and put my hand on his cheek. He was nine years old again, in my kitchen, with a skinned knee.

Gordon Whitcomb lunged at the table in the sugarhouse, grabbed my phone, and ran for the door. He ran straight into the chest of Pierre Gagnon, my neighbor and fellow sugar maker, seventy four years old, standing in the dark with a pair of sap buckets that he had brought for a wedding present. “Mr. Whitcomb,” Pierre said calmly, “you are holding the phone of my friend. There are two hundred witnesses, and one of them is the town constable.” Gordon looked at the constable, a plump woman in a bridesmaid dress, and gave the phone back.

Ashley stood in the glare of the floodlights, looking at her father with an expression I will never forget. She walked across the grass and stood in front of me. “Mr. Desrochers,” she said, “I said a horrible thing about you. I heard myself say it, and I could not stop. I have been a coward all my life. I am sorry.” I said she was young, and that cowards learn faster than saints. I asked her to dance with me. She cried and she laughed, and she took my hand.

We danced on the grass, the old man and the bride, to a fiddle tune, under the floodlights Yvette made me install. The band started again. Luc cut in after a minute, and I let him. Everyone clapped. Gordon Whitcomb drove off the hill at ten, alone, with his taillights shrinking through the trees. The mother of Ashley stayed and danced until midnight and told me my maple cream pie was the best she had ever had.

The money consequences were small and tidy. The option was voided by the lawyer in St. Johnsbury. Gordon lost his deposit, and a business partner sued him for hiding the plan. Luc and Ashley kept the wedding, but they paid me back the thirty nine thousand dollars with their own wages, slowly, five hundred dollars a month. I told them the debt could be forgiven in the spring, and they said no. They wanted to earn it. I have never been prouder of anybody.

In the name of Yvette, who passed in 2022, I started the Yvette Desrochers Fund. It pays for taps, buckets and evaporators for young sugar makers in Caledonia, Orleans and Essex counties. In the first year we outfitted nine small sugarbushes. A girl in Barton, nineteen years old, boiled her first batch in March, with her mother stirring and her little brother tending the fire. She sent me a pint. It was grade A dark. I put it on the shelf above the stove, beside the photo of my wife. In March of the next year, Luc and Ashley came to the sugarhouse before dawn, in work boots, to help me boil. Ashley learned to read the color of the syrup against the light. Luc stoked the fire and listened, really listened, while I told him the old stories. When the first batch came off the pan, I asked him if he could hear the bubbles change. He said he could. I told him that was the sound of something ready.

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